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From palace to parlour, the story of ice cream is the story of capitalism

by | Jul 26, 2018

The Analyst

From palace to parlour, the story of ice cream is the story of capitalism

by | Jul 26, 2018

Britain’s blistering heatwave has created a record-breaking demand for the treat that, over the course of the last century, has become a summer favourite the world over: ice cream. Sales have increased 100 per cent year on year, and London is even hosting an ice-cream themed pop-up exhibition, fittingly titled ‘Scoop’.

Just 350 years ago, ice cream was a rare delicacy, reserved for kings and the richest of aristocrats. To enjoy it a person had to be able to afford refrigeration, which in the pre-industrial world was arduous and expensive.

Back then, to refrigerate foodstuffs, people needed the land to build an ice house (to store the ice), fresh water access, and servants to cut and hull the ice. The ice would have to be regularly restocked and was available only in some climates at some times. But thanks to technological and scientific progress, ice cream has become available to pretty much everyone.

The first recorded mention of ice cream was on the menu of a feast given in 1671 by King Charles II. The banquet was held to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Charles’ ascendency to the British throne. The flavour remains unknown, but the dessert was exclusive to the King’s table and served with “one plate of white strawberries”.

The new treat quickly took off. Eating ice cream not only demonstrated very high social status, but flavours themselves were a means to show off. From cucumber to carnation, sherry to daffodil (even though daffodil is poisonous), the more outlandish the flavour, the more it was valued by aristocrats.

Fast-forward 150 years to the 1850s, and ice cream had become available to the masses, albeit in a very different way than we know today. Italian immigrants who came to the United Kingdom to escape the Napoleonic Wars and poor economic conditions created The Penny Lick. Street vendors would sell a small glass of ice cream for a penny to crowds of joyous customers. This light-hearted contraption ended up having deadly consequences.

The Penny Lick was banned in 1898 after it was directly linked with an outbreak of tuberculosis. TB is spread by the coughing, sneezing or spitting, so it’s not surprising the a glass cleaned with a dirty rag and then reused would be infested with germs. Luckily, necessity is the mother of invention and concerns over hygiene meant when the ice cream cone was first created in 

About Alexander C. R. Hammond

About Alexander C. R. Hammond

Alexander C. R. Hammond is a researcher at a Washington DC think tank.

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